Ireland Saturday August 4th - Ventry

Ring of Kerry - ***

 

Ah, the fabled Ring of Kerry. Let me say that I think the Ring deserves to be driven rather then ridden, by that I mean take your own car instead of getting a bus. This lets you stop off at spots that the buses can’t fit a few short hikes out into more pristine landscapes. You also get to dictate where and when you stop. We only encountered the bus tourists for a short time in Sneem and only at the very end as we were leaving the town.

Buses are legally required to take the Ring counterclockwise heading to Kilgorin, so if you’re driving start your journey heading out towards Kenmare. We stopped at the small pullovers and easy hikes on to Killarney National Park property, even finding ourselves at the other end of Lough Leane where we had rowed out the day before. One particularly scenic spot, Ladies View, was a large rocky promontory leaning out over a lush valley framed by the mountains of the park.

Advertised on the Ring is a small holy well that we stopped off at to stretch our legs. It was a short hike into the woods and down a few paths before we came upon it, a natural well bubbling away with holy symbols and pictures of loved ones around it. The area is very serene and beautiful, upkeep is handled by the local township and it’s worth a stop off for some peace.





Sneem - ***
Sneem, Co. Kerry

Go here! It’s a town touched by tourism without yet being overwhelmed by it, in a picturesque area cut away from the hustle and bustle of other cities. Such a cute quaint little town and it’s small enough you could drive through without really registering it. Be warned: If you get to this point at the wrong time tourists will be crawling over every inch from the tour buses and the bridge (only wide enough for one car at a time) will be a mess to get through.
In the center of the North side of the town there’s a 100-year time capsule sealed in 2000 that’s just a fun little sight to see. It’s surrounded by houses and bars and close to the bridge sits a small estuary where the river that divides the town reaches Kenmare bay. The water there froths and swirls across the rocky ground and it looks just beautiful.
The other side of the bridge holds a bunch of shops and bars to hang out in. Several of the major GTS (Goofy Tourist Shit) acquisitions occurred in the shops in Sneem and some really great pictures were taken along the bridge and estuary.

Finish the Ring!

Finishing was a little hectic from here as we crossed paths with the tour buses. Many had arrived while we walked and only a few were coming in as we left so it was only for a short while, but we were treated to a glimpse of what we’d be up to at this hour had we gone around in their direction: lines of 10-20 cars stuck bumper-to-bumper behind each bus as they rolled into the sleepy town. Sour grapes avoided!
The rest of the drive was absolutely beautiful even though we felt the need to hurry and get through it so we could arrive at our B&B on time. It boiled down to spending less time taking pictures and a bit more time just looking at the places we were heading through, which might have been nicer.


Moriarty’s Farmhouse - **
Ceann Tra (Ventry) Village, Co Dingle

Ventry was a sleepy town on the Dingle Peninsula we stopped off at for our only 3 day stay and boy was I glad we did! Brid welcomed us in with tea, fresh scones and the best homemade raspberry jam I’ve ever tasted! Even though she was on her way out to church she was very helpful in suggesting us places to eat and things to do in the area.
We decided that some simple food was in order and got some Cup of Soups at the local gas station instead of taking on another massive pub dinner. Exhausted from a full day of driving and hiking around the Ring we sat back in our room to relax and read.

Ireland Friday August 3rd - Killarney

The ladies at Acara had let us use their phone to call around to the Skellig Michael tours but the weather turned on us, we found out that they wouldn’t be doing any tours to Skellig for the weekend. Suddenly we needed something new to fill the day! Janet pulled out our trusty Frommer’s Ireland guide and after a quick chat we decided to check out Ross Castle in Killarney National Park.

Ross Castle - **

Ross Castle is quite cool and in a very pretty part of the park, but I wasn’t really that interested in it even though I got some nice pictures. However it wasn’t the castle that really caught my interest, it was the tour options for the lake. You could jump on with a tour boat and get some local flavor, rent kayaks and a guide, or jump in a rowboat and traverse the lake on your own. It had been a long time since I did anything nautical so naturally I goaded Janet into letting me row us a nondescript distance in an unfamiliar foreign country on a rowboat that we just watched get bailed out by a strange Irish man.
While we were getting set up the guy who rents the boats mentioned there was an island at the center of the lake called Innisfallen that holds some old monastic ruins. This is exactly what were had planned the Skellig Michael trip out for so we decided to take on the lake.

Innisfallen, Lough Leane - ***

Picture courtesy of Janet Schuellein

Innisfallen turned out to be the best experience of the trip for me. It was a combo of the effort to get there, the natural beauty, the majesty of the ruins, the brave deer that inhabited the island, and the perfectly balanced weather.
By the time we arrived I was soaking wet and exhausted from rowing, singularly focused on tying us off at the cement pier. Janet urged me to look and when I did, I saw the first of too many beautiful sights we saw on the Island.
In front of us was a lush green lawn, a towering cone-shaped tree, the rough walls of the 7th century monastery, and about 8 deer looking at us with curiosity (title picture above). It was straight out of a painting and none of our pictures quite do it justice.

We spent near two hours out on Innisfallen taking pictures, talking, and chasing deer down the roughshod paths cut across the island. Every inch of it is beautiful beyond words and I urge anyone who has three or four hours in Killarney and some nice weather to get out there. I wish I could have bottled the experience and took it home with me. Smithwicks will have to do.
As we finished the main hike around the island and returned to the pier I could see a group of kayakers coming with a guide. We did everything we could to scare them off including Janet's best viking war cries, but they still invaded.

 Some of the magic wore off once we weren’t alone out there, but we were happy to leave it in capable hands. We rowed back with renewed spirits to hunt down some wild lunch in the town!

McKenzie’s Cafe - ***
15 New Street, Killarney Co. Kerry

We dropped off our laundry at the local laundromat then went on the prowl for some lunch. We ran across McKenzie’s, checked out the menu and decided to order.
The food was all homemade by the owner and was delicious. Everyone was nice to us as we debated our choices. The coffee was awesome and it had a great ambiance of upscale cafe, the first we really saw in Ireland. Remember to order Americano unless you like it strong!
We went back for dinner later that night as well and even though they were closing up we were able to order a second round of food and drinks. It is definitely worth a stop in just for the food, and the generous serving of coffee is another excellent excuse.

Quills Woolen Mill - **
28 High Street, Killarney Co. Kerry

Janet loved trolling through the Woolen mills for new pieces or good prices and loved this particular location. It was pretty big and had plenty of things to check out. They also had a big markdown on many of their items, I didn’t realize until later that this was the Irish summer and as such we were probably looking at lower prices on many items. I wasn’t complaining!

The Danny Mann Inn, Round 2 - ***
98 R877 Killarney, Co. Kerry

Not much else to say except that if there's music playing go there. Get a seat in front if possible, you don’t really have to order food after 9pm so don’t feel bad. Another great band and great traditional music.

Ireland Thursday August 2nd - Killarney

In the morning we grabbed breakfast with the Westwood House family and had a chat about our plans.

Blarney Castle - ***

As much as I hate to say it (because it’s the classic tourist thing), Blarney Castle is a do not miss attraction. It’s situated in a pristine area of the countryside and the gardens are kept beautifully landscaped. It’s a great place for an amateur photographer to let loose and explore.
Get there in the morning on an off day like we did to avoid hordes of tourists. If you get there while it’s raining the kiss at the stone will back up so try to get there on a clear day.

The castle itself is huge and picturesque but the surrounding gardens are the real treat that most people seemed to ignore. We went on our own little adventure after the castle and saw plenty of beautiful sights among the Druid’s stones and the Witches rock. Plan to take your time here and really absorb the natural beauty around the ferns and boardwalk.
Not to mention there was some good food and coffee to be found at the little shop right inside the gates. If you are lucky there might even be some musicians playing some traditional music, if so take a seat there and enjoy!

Blarney Woolen Mills - ***

This was a total super-store for the woolen mills which had 90% of the pieces we saw across the country while we were there. The prices ranged a bit but if you see something you can’t live without grab it and never look back!

Acara, Killarney - **

We hopped over to Killarney once we were done in Blarney and checked into our B&B Acara. Carmel was a total doll for our stay and we had a nice little room with a window facing the street.
The hosts were very helpful as we searched around the ports to find a boat heading to Skellig Michael, going as far as to let us use their phone to make the calls. It was also an easy walk between there and the town center, so we took advantage and grabbed a couple of drinks the few nights we spent there.

Danny Mann Inn - ***
98 R877 Killarney, Co. Kerry

Hankering for some entertainment of the musical variety? We got the tip from Carmel to check out the pub for some traditional music and drinks at night. The other pubs in the area were not actually home to the kind of music we wanted to hear or were too overcrowded/loud to properly enjoy.
We snuck around to the front until we were right up against the stage to enjoy the music. When the guys packed up we shot over to grab a CD and had a good long chat with them about all they’ve seen and done. As usual with every Irish person we’ve spoken to they asked about our itinerary and got a bunch of suggestions about our next stops.

We wandered home that night laughing and scaring the locals. Damn tourists!

Ireland Wednesday August 1st - Blarney

Leaving our B&B was heartbreaking! Nialls was such a polite host and a real great introduction to the B&B scene. But we had more adventures to chase!

Waterford Crystal - ***

 Waterford Crystal was one of our stops that we weren’t really sure about. We aren’t at the point where we want crystal, but it seemed like a big touristy thing we should do so we went after it.
I can say with confidence that it was a great experience. It was the only active factory that we visited and we got to watch pieces actually being blown, scoured and etched. We were handed the ‘backup’ trophies for different world events such as the NFL trophy, and we got a look at the London 2012 Crystal Cup.

Kilkenney Castle - **

We were clued into Kilkenney and the castle by our host and decided to detour to it for the shops and whatnot.
The castle is in the midst of a major restoration project so only parts of it were open to the public but these parts have been painstakingly fixed back to their original ‘as new’ look through finding swatches of wallpaper/carpet and enlisting the help of the original manufacturers by way of found records. There’s also plaques of historic information that give you an idea of castle life.
The grounds were quite pretty and the tour was fun. It was even free for that day! They didn’t allow pictures inside of the castle though it was still a good experience.

We next had to find Blarney which is a quaint little town a little ways away from Tramore. We asked another gas station attendant and pretty soon we were at Westwood

Westwood - ***

Westwood was a picturesque B&B located out a little ways down a single lane road in the sticks. It’s perched on top of a hill in the Irish countryside. The breakfasts were absolutely delicious and here I learned about the magic that is crepes.
The host was having a number of family members over for a wedding but still doted over us when we needed help. The breakfast here was amazing and if you’re into the B&B scene I say track this place down! Very close to Blarney Castle and Kilkenney so a good place to set down for the inbetween.
We spent a good hour just wandering the street taking pictures of cows, vistas and general skullduggery of our own. The town proper includes Blarney Castle and a Woolen Mills megastore that's worth exploring for something warm to wear in those cold nights.

Ireland Tuesday July 31 - Tramore

I noticed I’ve been meandering, so I’m going to try a different layout on this. I’ll use these ratings to help me focus:

Stars:

* - Avoid

** - Approved

*** - Don’t miss

Finally we leave Dublin! Jet lag plus three days of almost exclusively traveling by foot had taken its toll so it was nice to know we’d be able to drive places and move about at our leisure.

We booked a cab in the morning from the hotel to Hertz for convenience sake and chatted with our cabby on the way over. He was a bit less talkative then the others but still gave us some good information on things to see around the areas we were heading.

South Street Hertz, Dublin - **

Hertz was really great to us. We were warned about the size of our car and even advised not to rent a GPS because we would “be able to buy two units” for the price of renting (note from later - we were able to skip the GPS all together. 70 euro back in our pockets!). We were asked if we wanted to upgrade to two drivers but decided to take the single driver to save another 108 euro.

The Nicest People You’ll Ever Meet

My first experience driving was interesting. We made a left out of Hertz just to get used to it and pretty soon were utterly lost. A lucky stumble across a gas station led me inside to ask for directions.

The attendant was explaining how to get to the N11 when out of nowhere the gentlemen behind me offered to show us to the highway. I jump in the car and next thing we know we’re tailing a perky stranger through the streets of Dublin.

Now, conventional wisdom states this is a good way to get robbed. I was on the lookout for weirdness and made sure that he was taking us back to the city center. At one long light he jumps out of his car and tells me he’ll pull over before he goes his own way. Hilarious, and very kind. We parted ways at the start of the N11 with high spirits.

Finding the path to Glenadalough was easy enough but I nearly slid into an old habit and left-turned into the right lane after a roundabout. I also clipped some roadside shrubbery. I assured Janet that we were just trying to help the tourism board save on hedge clipping, but she remained staunch in her belief that I was actively trying to take her out first.

Glendalough - ***

Glendalough was divided into two sections: The monastic settlement/graveyard (pictured top and left) and two hiking trails that lead up to a verdant lake area.

The hikes at Glendalough were beautiful beyond words. It was a fitting introduction to Ireland’s natural beauty and historic ruins. The hiking trails are well maintained and the little cafe at the second lot near the upper lake has warm drinks for the hike back to the monastic city and parking lot. Don’t miss out on the waterfall hike for some great pictures.

Fair warning, if you pee on Ireland, it will pee you back. I spent most of the second half of the hike in wet socks when I stomped into some mucky sod. Deserved it.

B and B Norlands, Tramore - **

Beautiful start for the B and B scene. Our host Nialls was welcoming and very charming. Every time we’d cross paths we’d have a nice long conversation about our itinerary and he had plenty of suggestions. The house was beautifully kept and the room was immaculate.

Tramore - **

The town of Tramore was beautiful. Built into the side of a mountain overlooking the ocean, the streets are charmingly bent and meandering. At the base they had a boardwalk park with a ferris wheel and plenty of activity.

Great Hotel - *

The food was delicious and if you sat in the right spot you got a wonderful view of the ocean from a high point in the town. Unfortunately we did not get one of those spots and the waiter was a bit too overwhelmed to properly help us, leading to a crappy experience.

On the way back to the B&B we stopped for a 99er then turned in for a lazy night.

Ireland Monday July 30th - Dublin

In the morning we set out to make up on some other missed attractions from the day before. Let your itinerary flow when you’re in Ireland, especially if you’re spending a few days in the area.

Carrols

We were on our way to St. Michals when we passed by Carrol’s gift shop where a cabby had told us to try to find our souvenirs. It wasn’t long before we had in our possession some swanky tees and an amazing viking hat.

Jeweler

We set out again for St. Michals but the lady had been coveting a Claddagh ring and a nearby store there had a cute display on the street that drew us upstairs. It wasn’t long before she had found the ring that was ‘just right’ at the jeweler there.

St. Michals

We finally made our way over to St. Michals using the street signs that helpfully point out nearby attractions. The church, like many in Ireland, is an architectural marvel and quite beautiful inside. Many people in the country are still very religious. The thing I was most interested in was the crypt tour.

In comes the tour guy with a cigarette and a coffee. My first impression was that he was hungover and we had made a huge mistake. He led us around the church and to the crypt entrance. As people filed away into the underground he asked each group where they were from and a little bit about their trip, which I thought was cute but annoying since it took us a while to get down there.

When we got down there I understood pretty much everything. He was a master at describing the different tombs and the situations that each was in, from the hated nobleman to the still active burial area. He had asked about where everyone was from so he could pepper in some local language and jokes when descriptions were too complicated form limited English speakers. It was a big enhancement overall and a completely brilliant performance.

We were then allowed into the first crypt (we were doing our tour backwards) which housed some naturally mummified bodies. A large part of our initial group had taken off to do other things leaving about 15 of us for the first crypt tour. We were patient for the tour guide and he came down to talk about the crypt there as well.

Since the group was so small, we were allowed in to touch the finger of the ‘Dead Crusader’ for luck. If you’ve never touched a mummified finger before, let me assure you it is utterly disgusting.

Jameson Distillery

We shot over to the Old Jameson Distillery for another tour. In the first room Janet was given a Jameson cardboard tube and proclaimed the recipient of a free whiskey tasting. This, of course, left a bad taste in my mouth when I was glanced over for the honor.

Jameson was another ex-factory tour where you were just told what had gone on there at some point in the past. From what I understand the Jameson factory near Waterford is an active facility in which you get a more involved tour. This affects my enjoyment, but the tour was still interesting.

We got to the end and everyone was given a choice between several Jameson mixed drinks or a straight shot of their aged 12 year. I picked up a Jameson and Cranberry while Janet nabbed a Jameson and Ginger. Then she was called up for her tasting!

In front of the rest of us unwashed slobs a panel of 12 were given a shot of Jameson aged 12, a shot of Jack Daniels Red Label, and a shot of Scotch, then asked to chain sip them to compare. Ten out of twelve people picked the Jameson 12.

We also had lunch there, which was delicious, then picked up some souvenirs (including a Jameson truffle bar which remains untested, to my own chagrin). I’d suggest anyone who plans on doing these touristy things bring a backpack or prepare to suffer as a walking billboard.

St Patricks

By the time we got to Saint Patricks cathedral there was some actual sun! We stopped off in the park outside to soak up some rays and got the chance to see a real Irish argument in action, which as you might expect is just two different people saying passive aggressive things loudly in public.

The cathedral was beautiful, definitely the most beautiful and most photogenic of the churches we visited. There are also some ancient sigil banners hanging in one section which were a treat to look at and take pictures of.

Mall of Dublin

What can I say about the mall stores in Dublin? They were all sectioned off in Temple Bar and were easy to get through, but by the time we got there we were exhausted! I’m sure we could have enjoyed this part of the trip better if we hadn’t been exhausted.

One thing to note when trying to find food: Everything has mayo on it. All of the premade sandwhiches have it, and if you don’t specify that you want no mayo on ordered sandwiches there’s a good chance you’ll end up with it. So just clarify with most of your choices or you’ll end up wandering Dublin for hours trying to find something that isn’t already drenched in animal fat.

We finally trudged over to the Ginger Bread Man pub. We ordered some food and I ended another night with a pint of Irish red. The particular brew escapes me but it was delicious as was our food.

To close out our little venture in Dublin and our last day in the hotel we brewed ourselves a spot of tea and had the last of our animal crackers while watching the London news crew comment on the Olympic teams.

Ireland Sunday July 29 - Dublin

We spent about half an hour trying to figure out the buses before a lucky combo of frustration and a red light netted us a cab. Our first guy was really polite even though we were saying nonsense. The conversation basically went:

”We’re going to the gow-l.” (spelled gaol).
“Uh…”
“Kilmainham Gaol?”
“You mean the jail?”
“Oh… it’s pronounced the same way?”

Kilmainham Gaol

After that things were simpler. We queued at Kilmainham and were treated to a little museum and a guided tour. The tour at Kilmainham includes a bit of Irish history on the war for Independence and the five failed revolutions (protip: more reasons to hate the French). Highly suggested!


Guinness Storehouse

We cabbed on over to Guinness from the jail and we were given a great tip: When an irish person asks you about your itinerary, don’t be alarmed. They just want to suggest things to you. We’ve been given so much information on things to do I feel bad for having made so many plans in advance. A vacation to Ireland should be left to bare bones must-dos and local suggestion.

Guinness was a self-guided tour that detailed the process of brewing Guinness from hops to cask. The thing, ironically, that Guinness shined in was the delectable lunch available from the fifth floor 'Brewer's Dining Hall'. Go get the Guinness Stew and Chocolate Mousse, you will not be disappointed.

While you’re there, snatch up some of their recipe cards to make at home. Before you leave, make sure to retrieve your complimentary ‘Perfect Pour’ from the Gravity Bar and get the 360 degree view from the top of the factory.

Behind the scenes: While the activity list from the Frommer’s guides were awesome, their maps were awful. I spent a lot of time lost and it caused some big arguments. Do not use their maps.

Christchurch Cathedral

After ambling around the storehouse for a while we ended up walking through Dublin in a downpour and stumbled across Christchurch. It’s a beautiful little area and for a small fee you can wander around at off hours and take pictures of the grounds. If you’re at all interested, go for it!

Dublin Castle was… there. Just don’t.

Queen of Tarts was just as delicious a second time around!

Unfortunately jet lag hit hard at around dinner and we ran back to the hotel to take a nap. That lasted until 9p! Has anyone recently told you that stuff closes in Dublin? Every restaurant near us was closed except for the pubs which had closed their kitchens. Luckily there was a nearby pizza place that was open until 1a. We got a mini pizza each and scurried back to the hotel with our spoils.