August 30, 2012

Ireland Tuesday August 7th - Kinvara


Cliffs of Moher - ***



Wow. Just, go. The parking is what costs you at the cliffs, the area is tastefully developed with a few artisan shops in the entrance area and a small cafe/cultural center a little beyond it for the hungry tourist. All along the developed tourist area are small points you can peer over the edge of the cliff and get some cute pictures.
There’s also a small lookout tower there up the steps that gives a great view of the tourist area and Atlantic Ocean. I’ve heard that they’ve had some difficulty with invasions in that area of the Irish Viking variety.
You’ll know the edge of the tourist area when you find a series of ‘No Trespassing’ signs, others begging people to ‘Seek Help’, and ‘Unstable Cliff Edge’ warnings. After all, it’s trespassing, and illegal, and no one I know would ever ever do something as foolhardy and dangerous as the 5.4 mile cliffs hike to the old quarry and further past that to the ancient stone lookout tower with the rotted out floors and crumbling edges on the dirt path that comes within an inch of plummeting, horrifying death. No one at all.


Unfortunately I’ll just have to use these pictures from someone who totally isn’t me that did the hike, sat down at the stone tower, ate an orange with his girlfriend Janet, then walked back along the path again. This guy probably dawdled in the quarry area with the visitor-made stone piles and added a few of his own before continuing along the cliff edge taking pictures and generally making a mockery of his own fear of heights.
So I definitely think the guy who did that hike would advise anyone interested in doing it to only do so in extremely good conditions, probably for them to leave in the morning on a day with a good weather forecast. The day he went he probably got back just in time for an incredible downpour to start which is just like the day before when he tried to get in later in the day. And he’d probably say if you’re planning to hike the cliffs to grab something from the cafe before you leave, but I know you would never consider something so foolhardy.

Ailwee Cave - **



(I am not cut out for cave pictures! Boo!)

This little cave was discovered in 1944 but remained the secret of it’s discoverer for nearly 30 years until 1973. It was developed from there into a small but intimate tour with a small gift shop in the area of several minor attractions on the way to/from the Cliffs. If you’re curious and you want to check it out I say go for it, but you’re not really missing anything if you don’t.

M'asal Beag Dubh Ba Restaurant, Round 2 - ***
Main Street, Kinvara, Co. Galway

Just delicious. Their pizza was awesome and we sat for more Olympic coverage.

Dungaire Castle - ***

Dungaire Castle often runs castle banquets but we were already signed up for one way in advance so we skipped over this aspect, but I’m sure it would have been a great experience. Instead, after a beer and some delicious food, we stopped off at the nearby parking lot and hoofed it over to the castle while stalking some teens. We walked the grounds around the castle and just appreciated the architecture of it, wishing we had a bit more time to really enjoy it.

August 29, 2012

RAM 10 page excerpt

A Cold Day in Sanctum


The Sanctum is cold.
Men before me would describe the air as biting, say that it sapped your energy making you dull and less impulsive. The streets are largely empty of activity. The walk is lonely even when there are others to share it.
I pull my flat cap down over my eyebrows to spare my face some of the Siberian routine, flip the collar of my pea-coat then force my hands deep into the woolen pockets. These are the things I do to keep warm, or at least the things I do to assure myself that I am doing all I can.
I glance back and see a woman behind me, her cloche hat low and long scarf wafting in the wind. I feel a sort of camaraderie with the lady; we each cut through the icy drafts to make sure our station would remain functioning throughout the endless winter. Section 8 would not be the station that fails. We should have been a team but are just two strangers fighting climate wrapped in composite thread and apathy.
I turn to get a better look at her; long blonde hair tucked in to her jacket, a pale hand clutches the lapels together. She wears long woolen pants and her legs move like engine pistons, tap-tap-taps on the pavement.
I trudge on, the buildings I pass uniform, just one level stacked upon another several stories tall. It seems even the designers themselves wanted no emotion evoked from the study of their craftsmanship.
I could be a Sanctum Architect. Place red brick across a lot. Cement it. Brick and mortar stairway to a pale blue door (the dullness of primer). Two windows per level, spaced out equally. Separate the ceiling and floor with a small ledge, not large enough to stand on. Drop a flat roof on it.
There's an abandoned play park in front of the facade, full of rusting metal hanging rails. The paint is dirty, chipped and molting. I turn to comment on it to the cloche, think better. On occasion I think too much, not thoughts of great import but just the peculiar kind that you hear rather than experience; and for it I feel a wash of guilt.
A bright yellow bell flower clings to life in the cracked asphalt ahead. It pleases me to consider that even here nature might find a way. It gives me hope that somewhere flowers bloom.
Movement from the alley. I already know what it is, but I look anyway.
They are standing just inside, staring out at us with vacant eyes. They wear what they can forage, pale blue jumpsuits from the station shredded and sewn to sate their urge for creativity. A mismatch, a riot of fabric and many colored dyes.
A girl at the front has a tattoo of a tiger across her right cheek, its fangs bared and hovering over her eye while its front paws rested on her upper lip. Almond eyes and skin tone and small in stature, with long black hair tied in a ponytail. She has a club.
A young man stands behind her. Gauges in each ear lobe stretch them to a thumb's width. Spikes stick out the thin bridge of his nose and he has short blonde hair. Tattooed down the length of his throat are black plates like body armor. He holds a chain.
The last boy is the shortest with dark skin and hair. He is a little wide for a punk, but dressed and punctured all the same. His dark eyes smolder, and tattooed across his forehead are characters of a forgotten tongue in white. He has his hands tucked into the shredded jumpsuit but I can still see the jagged frame of brass knuckles.
My heart races. Punks. They watch me walk, watch me watching them. Evaluating. Deciding. The blonde sneers.
“Run!” I yell.
Flooded with adrenaline I pound the pavement. Buildings rush past me, empty alleys between, but I don't hear anyone else. My lungs burn and muscles turn to steel cable, but still I run; each breath is fire, each step pain.
Then I'm doubled over and panting. I make it most of a city block before realizing the girl isn't with me. The chain rattles in the distance.
I look back and see the punks moving in like a pincer, engulfing her in shadow. She makes a desperate noise as she limps away from them, the injured fawn snapped at by hyenas.
I'm running back. Why am I running back? Why does it feel wrong to abandon her? A question every step. Everyone moves in slow motion and I feel each moment pass me as I undo my escape. They surround her more, she's inching toward being consumed. I have to save her, I have to do something.
They see I'm returning then stop and focus on me, the chain swings uncertainly.
“Run!” the cloche pleads.
I stop beside her. “Get to the station.”
“Better listen to her chav,” growls the blonde with the black metal plate tattoos.
The cloche grabs my arm and only wastes a second trying to pull me along, the punks gather their wits and stalk towards me. I scan for anything that could be used as a weapon. Nothing. And nowhere for me to run without putting the girl back on the chopping block.
They are scavengers and move cautiously. The blonde walks straight on, the girl to my left and the dark boy to my right. I'm in their pincers, and the chain is whirling.
I have never fought anyone in my life. With fists raised, it all comes down to this, surrounded by detritus and violent outcasts.
“Come on,” the girl taunts in a high voice, “hero!”
I feint at the blonde and all three take a step back. “Piss off you brats!”
They've almost surrounded me now, and when they have they'll regain their confidence.
My heart thumps.
A bead of sweat drips down my forehead.
Now!
I rush the blonde and punch as the chain lashes my arm. An elbow across the girl's chin, but where's the-
My rib shudders
“Feel that chav!”
I double over, choking down gulps of air, then throw a haymaker into brass knuckle's gullet. He collapses, clutching at his windpipe, the blonde sprawled behind him.
The girl-
The club strikes my back and I collapse.
“Fucking hero!” Then giggles.
I'm turned on to my back and feel a seizure of pain. All sound fades into a low hum. My vision focuses and the dark boy stands over me massaging his throat, smirking. He straddles me, then raises his fist.
“I'm gonna enjoy this, chav.”
The first punch lands directly in my cheek.
The second glances off my forehead.
The third does not come. There's a scream but it's distant and quiet, then another voice joins.
My cheek feels swollen and I gingerly touch my face; the skin is pulped and covered in blood. I wipe the humor from my eye and turn to the source of the noise.
The blonde has the chain wrapped around the dark boy's neck and he's pulled it so tight that the others back is grotesquely arched. The girl has her arms wrapped around the blonde's chest while she sobs and screams. There's spittle on his lip and he's baring his teeth in a twisted smile, pulling a one black plate edge over the crest of his chin.
His eye swollen shut, I meet his stare. We hold the gaze for an interminable length then he drops the chain, still staring. Eyes on me, he drags the dark boy away as the girl pleads with him.
Then it is the street and I for a time, the usually silent building faces howl as the wind whips between them. A bitter zephyr dances between the walls and flows over me, warmth wicks away and my senses dull. In this moment, it spares me some pain.
The familiar sound of helicopter blades reach my ears and I shakily crane my neck. A round, rotored metal Eye camera floats over the street; a ball of metal suspended between two hoops of banded steel. It rolls implacably fast and bobs wildly before zeroing in and approaching me. It hovers there and stares – if you can call it that – with perverted solemnity.
I lay on the ground feeling the creeping pangs of agony wash over me as the wind chills my bones. The Eye, apparently satisfied that I would not be moving, leaves me to myself after a minute's long consideration.
Finally, some peace.

I'm drawn back to consciousness by the sound of the segmented Protector boots meeting concrete, like momentary chatterings of metal teeth.
I look toward them through slits, the Protectors dark blue metallic armor draws light into it. Cut like muscle contours, the torso flows into the hardened metal legs and arms. They carry comically oversized jet black GT1120 assault rifles, safety always off.
My chest shakes along with my heart, but I stay on the ground and hope for empathy. The sound of static follows a gravelly growl. “`Are you awake?”
Ironic question. With great effort, I reach a hand in to the air.
“Collect him,” the Protector says.
Two Protectors walk to either side and lift me off the ground. Pooled blood runs down my forehead and drips from my brow to the street below. I feel like I've been run over by a truck and it's all I can do not to cry out in pain. They carry me over to the captain who produces a small machine that blinks bright lights in my face then dings.
“Hmm. You're supposed to be at Section 8 monitoring station. What happened?”
“Punk attack.”
“Did they take anything?”
“I... didn't check.”
“Why didn't you run?”
“What?”
“According to your physical profile you could have outrun them. Why not?”
It was a good question, one I had no answer to. The only thing that's understood here is self-preservation, and I wasn't sure what motivated the return. I remain silent with my head hung.
“Bring him to the Station.”

It's warm. I look up, we're inside the monitoring station. I must have passed out during the trip. The foyer is decrepit and dirty, covered in torn posters exalting the Sanctum. Everything is tan with brown trim except for grated metal security doors that block access to the upper floors. Before us are two steel portals and the Protector swings the doors open.
The security checkpoint's walls are covered in embossed metal criss-crossed with raised scars, the halogen bulbs and white marble floors make the blood dripping from my face a bright crimson. On the left side recess sits three monitors behind a protected desk, all staring at me with wide eyes and while whispering amongst themselves.
The Protectors wave a security badge at the checkpoint reader and one of the monitors makes a slight movement, the door buzzes and they continue through.
The marble transitions into riveted metal plates and catwalks. The room has opened up into an expansive suspended open floor, a series of floating administrator/observational units above us accessible from a stair on the right. Near the top of the building are a series of skylights and windows set into a vertical section of ceiling, casting the main area in dull light.
Machine cases rumble on the lower ground floor, each the size of a train car and covered in the industrial grease/dust mixture that's created over years of maintenance. Not many monitors get mechanic duty among the machine casings, so the one access to the lower floor is set off to the opposite side of the administrator stair.
I groan as the warmth that welcomed me to the building eats away at the numbness that makes my injuries tolerable. The monitoring stations branch off around the periphery of the cavernous room, small platforms haloed by brown metal railings, a single console at the rear of each. I can see my station looming, empty.
They throw me against my console and I cling to it, pain wracking every fiber. I can see a needle in the red and reach out to make an adjustment-
My stomach convulses, I vomit at my feet and nearly collapse. They struck me.
“Stand,” one commands.
I hold the console and slowly drag myself up until I'm perched upon it, the pain unbearable. I try not to shake as they crowd around me, breath raspy with artificial taint.
“You have a job to do citizen.”
I look over at the panel, only able to see one gauge at a time. There's another indicator in the red and I try to adjust it, miss the switch one... two... three times. I hear the rubberized glove tighten on the rifle just as I manage to hit the switch.
“Carry on.”
They do not care what state I am in, nor should they; Protectors are apathetic as any of us. The only difference is that it is their job to keep things running smoothly as much as it is my job to monitor these machines. Just jobs and identities, one monster. Another wave of nausea overtakes me, I lean on my damaged arm and it collapses.
I'm falling but then there's arms wrapped around my chest. A soft voice whispers in my ear, “I can't hold you up, you need to help!”
I grab the console and pull, slowly rising.
“Are you okay?”
I shudder, the feeling of knives in my spine. “No.”
“Why did you do that?”
“What?”
“Why didn't you run?”
I turn and see the cloche, now cloche-less, holding me. Her eyes are the most striking pattern of green and blue I've ever seen, her face is soft and pale, her lips full and red. Perfectly straight blonde hair falls to her shoulders.
“Unask the question.”
“You can't work like this”
“I have to. Why do you care?”
“I... you saved me from those punks. I owe you.”
Rotten nonsense. “Do your job and we'll call it even. You should get to your station before something goes wrong.”
“I only need to press those buttons once in a while, you know that. I checked everything before I came over.”
“How did you know where I'm stationed?”
“I've seen you walking here before. I was going to talk to you this morning. You seemed... like you were in a hurry.”
“I was late meeting some punks for a fist fight.”
She stays quiet for a few seconds. I can feel her arms around my rib cage, supporting me as I breath shallowly. “I... I'm... sorry. I'll go,” she mutters, releasing me.
“No, wait,” I start, but I can't hold myself up and slump over the console. The sound of her shoes striking the catwalk echoes lightly as she walks away then abruptly stops. I look to see what stalled her.
She has not stopped suddenly without reason, there was nothing stopping her from going further. In fact, she had merely reached the end of her journey. The station right next to mine.
The girl whose name and face I did not know, the relative stranger I'd risked my life for, was practically my cube-mate. She had neither hunted nor trekked to find me; we were strangers in a three-meter bubble, I ignorant of her entirely. She was right there, every day? My stand against the punks had crossed a chasm of indifference. Now a person three meters away, one I never noticed, had real concern.
I'd crushed it, damning her with my aggravation.
This is not normally one of my concerns. It is not of us to invest in relationships to one-another. Yet I feel... regret.
“I'm sorry,” I push myself up until I am leaning heavily on the console. “I'm in a lot of pain.”
She half-turns towards me with a look of surprise as her hands glide across the console to the edge of the railing and grips it with pale fingers. “Do you want help?”
There's a tingling sensation on the nape of my neck, and I nod.
Her teeth sparkle in the dull room, hands come together. “I'll be right back once I've checked everything.”
I watch her as she operates the panel and double-checks the console. Time passes slowly then, the throbbing pain radiates in my back and arm. If only the wind would chill me again, but then the girl comes and is standing beside me, and her warmth is more inviting.

August 28, 2012

Ireland Monday August 6th - Kinvara



Conor Pass - ***

If you’re going back up the way we were towards Galway and your vehicle passes the size restrictions just take the time to go through Conor pass, it’s a winding road in the highest mountain pass in all of Ireland and even in bad weather it’s beautiful. Looking out across the pass as we drove by was incredible, buildings in the distance look like scale models and you see a huge area of the peninsula at the stop off at the top.
Being the wearied veterans of more then a weeks worth of touristing the hell out of Ireland we opted out of the hiking trail that criss-crosses at the top, but I watched a few families make the trek and can only imagine the view they earned themselves.
Driving back down the pass roads is equally beautiful, including a view of a waterfall and rolling hills. We also stopped by a sheep in the road and he bumped around our car for a few minutes while traffic backed up all around us. The roads here were a bit tight so be careful driving in the area, you’ll never know when you have to stop around a corner or do some major backing up.

Shannon Ferry - **

If you’re in the mood to skip the drive through Limerick and enjoy a short boat ride, I definitely suggest the Shannon Ferry. We got there just in time for the boat to leave and despite my american credit card waging war on their readers (and winning) everyone was very nice.

We left early on this day to make it to the Cliffs of Moher and get it out of the way but unfortunately when we arrived a pea soup fog and awful rainstorm had beat us there. Knowing I didn’t want to miss out  on hiking dirt paths mere centimeters from a hundred meter drop because of something as slippery and wet as rain, I checked in with the parking attendant who advised us to come back a bit earlier the next day.

St Brigid’s Well - **

We stopped off at St. Brigids Well after the Cliff turned out to be a wash. It is a place of beauty and goal for people on pilgrimages for lost loved ones. The scene within the well is papered with pictures and stories, and it’s a very moving experience to read some of them. Out of respect I refused to take pictures in the well proper, but I did take the title picture just outside.

Villa Maria B&B - **

Maria keeps a beautiful home situated on the N67 inbetween the town of Kinvara and Kilcolgan. Along the walls are pictures she’s taken of the many sites of Ireland. The breakfast nook in the B&B is a wonderful and bright room at the front of the house and was a great start in the mornings.
It’s right near Kinvara and Mary was very helpful in getting us food and directions. The room was beautifully kept.

M'asal Beag Dubh Ba Restaurant - ***
Main Street, Kinvara, Co. Galway

What can I say? This place had some of the best food and beer we had on the entire trip and the servers were great. They played the Olympics while we were there at a respectable volume and even had a few chats about it while we watched. Go there!

August 23, 2012

Ireland Sunday August 5th - Ventry

Dingle - **

This sleepy town was fun to troll around in and have some relaxation time. I had envisioned this vacation with a tapering off of activity starting in the second week and Dingle was to be our first real calm stop.
Dingle is widely known for being a sleepy fisherman’s town where much of the signage still includes old Gael language. It’s also where Fungy, the famous Dingle Dolphin, hops about being entertaining in the bay. I personally had no desire to chill with any fish, but I hear he’s kind of a big deal.
We shopped about in the town, enjoying the haphazard arrangement of the main street and the different artisan shops peppered around. Go shop at the Strand House and check out the second-story cafe looking over the bay. They served some excellent pastries and soup, we spent a good part of an afternoon with books and coffee just relaxing.

Ring of Dingle (R559) - ***


We started ‘the route’ going from Tralee to the Gallarus Oratory out of Ventry, but got utterly lost three times. It was a trying start but eventually we got on the route proper and made it to the Gallarus Oratory. Note that the main road will turn away from Gallarus very suddenly and it’s not hard to miss because of it!

Gallarus Oratory - **

Gallarus was of interest to use because it was one of many well-preserved examples of early Christian religious buildings left on Ireland back in 12th century. They have a small tourist information center about a half mile off and they show a short loop video of information on it. The building itself is nestled away in beautiful countryside. If you’re at all interested in early architecture I’d go there and take a look, the stones were worked by very capable hands and the experience is cute.

“Crazy Freaking Promontory” - ***


Holy crap, there was no sign nearby that told us where we were, we just saw cars lined up on the side of the road in front of a flat area with some big rocks. We thought we’d stop and check it out because hey, tourists, and next thing we knew we were hiking up to some rocky promontories that dotted the area.
 
Each successive one was bigger than the last and closer to a rolling, buckling death and so of course we hurried our way across! The weather being average for our stay was not rainy nor windy, but it wasn’t sunny either, so we didn’t get to enjoy it’s full majesty. I could imagine it being beyond words with the sun shining.


An Dunbeag (Small Fort) - ***

This sleepy little fort on the coast is situated at the tip of another promontory point and is another architectural draw from the early years of Ireland’s history. It’s built into the earth with drainage channels beneath for the wet climate.
Built much like Gallarus (and the Beehive huts, which we skipped) An Dunbeag is situated on the edge of another cliff and is a short walk from the main route. A parking lot is thoughtfully placed across from it and has a pub for the wearied traveler.

Book Review: The Forever War

The Forever War - Joe Haldeman

The Forever War is a classic scifi novella published in 1974. It chronicles the protagonist William Mandella, forever uninterested in military service, during his military career jumping through time due to relativity. Along with a member of his initial unit Marygay Potter, the story explores interesting social predictions and is primarily a reflection on the frustration and loss of 'normalcy' felt by veterans who return from war.

William is a young man at the start of the book who is drafted into the military service of an intellectually elite division of the army. They are being trained for war against a largely unknown civilization called the 'Taurians' who are believed to have destroyed several colony ships in distant places. Intergalactic travel has been discovered through the use of 'colapsars' which function like wormholes but cause a severe time dilation when you pass through them.

All of this is a set up for a scifi epic in which you see technology hopping forward in leaps and bounds, the endless catch-22s of military bureaucracy, and the resulting future shock that occurs. In one battle the Taurians are clearly not even aware there is a war, in the next they are advanced fifty years. The return to earth for the surviving members of the initial division is heartbreaking as everything has changed and the way they lived is a distant memory with no one to understand their confusion. This is a loud and clear metaphor for the experience of Vietnam veterans returning from the war and becoming 'displaced' in our society.

This is a story for any scifi geek but especially for one who enjoys seeing social commentary and change as foretold by authors. The story becomes more heartbreaking as time goes on but at the core it's a simple story about war, love, and loss.

This is a must-read for the genre lover but will flop for most people, especially if you're unfamiliar with the ideas behind relativity or dislike science fiction in general.

August 21, 2012

Ireland Saturday August 4th - Ventry


Ring of Kerry - ***
Ah, the fabled Ring of Kerry. Let me say that I think the Ring deserves to be driven rather then ridden, by that I mean take your own car instead of getting a bus. This lets you stop off at spots that the buses can’t fit a few short hikes out into more pristine landscapes. You also get to dictate where and when you stop. We only encountered the bus tourists for a short time in Sneem and only at the very end as we were leaving the town.

Buses are legally required to take the Ring counterclockwise heading to Kilgorin, so if you’re driving start your journey heading out towards Kenmare. We stopped at the small pullovers and easy hikes on to Killarney National Park property, even finding ourselves at the other end of Lough Leane where we had rowed out the day before. One particularly scenic spot, Ladies View, was a large rocky promontory leaning out over a lush valley framed by the mountains of the park.

Advertised on the Ring is a small holy well that we stopped off at to stretch our legs. It was a short hike into the woods and down a few paths before we came upon it, a natural well bubbling away with holy symbols and pictures of loved ones around it. The area is very serene and beautiful, upkeep is handled by the local township and it’s worth a stop off for some peace.





Sneem - ***
Sneem, Co. Kerry


Go here! It’s a town touched by tourism without yet being overwhelmed by it, in a picturesque area cut away from the hustle and bustle of other cities. Such a cute quaint little town and it’s small enough you could drive through without really registering it. Be warned: If you get to this point at the wrong time tourists will be crawling over every inch from the tour buses and the bridge (only wide enough for one car at a time) will be a mess to get through.
In the center of the North side of the town there’s a 100-year time capsule sealed in 2000 that’s just a fun little sight to see. It’s surrounded by houses and bars and close to the bridge sits a small estuary where the river that divides the town reaches Kenmare bay. The water there froths and swirls across the rocky ground and it looks just beautiful.
The other side of the bridge holds a bunch of shops and bars to hang out in. Several of the major GTS (Goofy Tourist Shit) acquisitions occurred in the shops in Sneem and some really great pictures were taken along the bridge and estuary.

Finish the Ring!

Finishing was a little hectic from here as we crossed paths with the tour buses. Many had arrived while we walked and only a few were coming in as we left so it was only for a short while, but we were treated to a glimpse of what we’d be up to at this hour had we gone around in their direction: lines of 10-20 cars stuck bumper-to-bumper behind each bus as they rolled into the sleepy town. Sour grapes avoided!
The rest of the drive was absolutely beautiful even though we felt the need to hurry and get through it so we could arrive at our B&B on time. It boiled down to spending less time taking pictures and a bit more time just looking at the places we were heading through, which might have been nicer.


Moriarty’s Farmhouse - **
Ceann Tra (Ventry) Village, Co Dingle

Ventry was a sleepy town on the Dingle Peninsula we stopped off at for our only 3 day stay and boy was I glad we did! Brid welcomed us in with tea, fresh scones and the best homemade raspberry jam I’ve ever tasted! Even though she was on her way out to church she was very helpful in suggesting us places to eat and things to do in the area.
We decided that some simple food was in order and got some Cup of Soups at the local gas station instead of taking on another massive pub dinner. Exhausted from a full day of driving and hiking around the Ring we sat back in our room to relax and read.

August 16, 2012

Ireland Friday August 3rd - Killarney

The ladies at Acara had let us use their phone to call around to the Skellig Michael tours but the weather turned on us, we found out that they wouldn’t be doing any tours to Skellig for the weekend. Suddenly we needed something new to fill the day! Janet pulled out our trusty Frommer’s Ireland guide and after a quick chat we decided to check out Ross Castle in Killarney National Park.

Ross Castle - **


Ross Castle is quite cool and in a very pretty part of the park, but I wasn’t really that interested in it even though I got some nice pictures. However it wasn’t the castle that really caught my interest, it was the tour options for the lake. You could jump on with a tour boat and get some local flavor, rent kayaks and a guide, or jump in a rowboat and traverse the lake on your own. It had been a long time since I did anything nautical so naturally I goaded Janet into letting me row us a nondescript distance in an unfamiliar foreign country on a rowboat that we just watched get bailed out by a strange Irish man.
While we were getting set up the guy who rents the boats mentioned there was an island at the center of the lake called Innisfallen that holds some old monastic ruins. This is exactly what were had planned the Skellig Michael trip out for so we decided to take on the lake.

Innisfallen, Lough Leane - ***

Picture courtesy of Janet Schuellein

Innisfallen turned out to be the best experience of the trip for me. It was a combo of the effort to get there, the natural beauty, the majesty of the ruins, the brave deer that inhabited the island, and the perfectly balanced weather.
By the time we arrived I was soaking wet and exhausted from rowing, singularly focused on tying us off at the cement pier. Janet urged me to look and when I did, I saw the first of too many beautiful sights we saw on the Island.
In front of us was a lush green lawn, a towering cone-shaped tree, the rough walls of the 7th century monastery, and about 8 deer looking at us with curiosity (title picture above). It was straight out of a painting and none of our pictures quite do it justice.
We spent near two hours out on Innisfallen taking pictures, talking, and chasing deer down the roughshod paths cut across the island. Every inch of it is beautiful beyond words and I urge anyone who has three or four hours in Killarney and some nice weather to get out there. I wish I could have bottled the experience and took it home with me. Smithwicks will have to do.
As we finished the main hike around the island and returned to the pier I could see a group of kayakers coming with a guide. We did everything we could to scare them off including Janet's best viking war cries, but they still invaded.
 Some of the magic wore off once we weren’t alone out there, but we were happy to leave it in capable hands. We rowed back with renewed spirits to hunt down some wild lunch in the town!

McKenzie’s Cafe - ***
15 New Street, Killarney Co. Kerry

We dropped off our laundry at the local laundromat then went on the prowl for some lunch. We ran across McKenzie’s, checked out the menu and decided to order.
The food was all homemade by the owner and was delicious. Everyone was nice to us as we debated our choices. The coffee was awesome and it had a great ambiance of upscale cafe, the first we really saw in Ireland. Remember to order Americano unless you like it strong!
We went back for dinner later that night as well and even though they were closing up we were able to order a second round of food and drinks. It is definitely worth a stop in just for the food, and the generous serving of coffee is another excellent excuse.

Quills Woolen Mill - **
28 High Street, Killarney Co. Kerry

Janet loved trolling through the Woolen mills for new pieces or good prices and loved this particular location. It was pretty big and had plenty of things to check out. They also had a big markdown on many of their items, I didn’t realize until later that this was the Irish summer and as such we were probably looking at lower prices on many items. I wasn’t complaining!

The Danny Mann Inn, Round 2 - ***
98 R877 Killarney, Co. Kerry

Not much else to say except that if there's music playing go there. Get a seat in front if possible, you don’t really have to order food after 9pm so don’t feel bad. Another great band and great traditional music.

August 14, 2012

Ireland Thursday August 2nd - Killarney


In the morning we grabbed breakfast with the Westwood House family and had a chat about our plans.

Blarney Castle - ***

As much as I hate to say it (because it’s the classic tourist thing), Blarney Castle is a do not miss attraction. It’s situated in a pristine area of the countryside and the gardens are kept beautifully landscaped. It’s a great place for an amateur photographer to let loose and explore.
Get there in the morning on an off day like we did to avoid hordes of tourists. If you get there while it’s raining the kiss at the stone will back up so try to get there on a clear day.

The castle itself is huge and picturesque but the surrounding gardens are the real treat that most people seemed to ignore. We went on our own little adventure after the castle and saw plenty of beautiful sights among the Druid’s stones and the Witches rock. Plan to take your time here and really absorb the natural beauty around the ferns and boardwalk.
Not to mention there was some good food and coffee to be found at the little shop right inside the gates. If you are lucky there might even be some musicians playing some traditional music, if so take a seat there and enjoy!

Blarney Woolen Mills - ***

This was a total super-store for the woolen mills which had 90% of the pieces we saw across the country while we were there. The prices ranged a bit but if you see something you can’t live without grab it and never look back!

Acara, Killarney - **

We hopped over to Killarney once we were done in Blarney and checked into our B&B Acara. Carmel was a total doll for our stay and we had a nice little room with a window facing the street.
The hosts were very helpful as we searched around the ports to find a boat heading to Skellig Michael, going as far as to let us use their phone to make the calls. It was also an easy walk between there and the town center, so we took advantage and grabbed a couple of drinks the few nights we spent there.

Danny Mann Inn - ***
98 R877 Killarney, Co. Kerry

Hankering for some entertainment of the musical variety? We got the tip from Carmel to check out the pub for some traditional music and drinks at night. The other pubs in the area were not actually home to the kind of music we wanted to hear or were too overcrowded/loud to properly enjoy.
We snuck around to the front until we were right up against the stage to enjoy the music. When the guys packed up we shot over to grab a CD and had a good long chat with them about all they’ve seen and done. As usual with every Irish person we’ve spoken to they asked about our itinerary and got a bunch of suggestions about our next stops.

We wandered home that night laughing and scaring the locals. Damn tourists!

August 10, 2012

Ireland Wednesday August 1st - Blarney


Leaving our B&B was heartbreaking! Nialls was such a polite host and a real great introduction to the B&B scene. But we had more adventures to chase!

Waterford Crystal - ***




 Waterford Crystal was one of our stops that we weren’t really sure about. We aren’t at the point where we want crystal, but it seemed like a big touristy thing we should do so we went after it.
I can say with confidence that it was a great experience. It was the only active factory that we visited and we got to watch pieces actually being blown, scoured and etched. We were handed the ‘backup’ trophies for different world events such as the NFL trophy, and we got a look at the London 2012 Crystal Cup.

Kilkenney Castle - **

We were clued into Kilkenney and the castle by our host and decided to detour to it for the shops and whatnot.
The castle is in the midst of a major restoration project so only parts of it were open to the public but these parts have been painstakingly fixed back to their original ‘as new’ look through finding swatches of wallpaper/carpet and enlisting the help of the original manufacturers by way of found records. There’s also plaques of historic information that give you an idea of castle life.
The grounds were quite pretty and the tour was fun. It was even free for that day! They didn’t allow pictures inside of the castle though it was still a good experience.

We next had to find Blarney which is a quaint little town a little ways away from Tramore. We asked another gas station attendant and pretty soon we were at Westwood

Westwood - ***

Westwood was a picturesque B&B located out a little ways down a single lane road in the sticks. It’s perched on top of a hill in the Irish countryside. The breakfasts were absolutely delicious and here I learned about the magic that is crepes.
The host was having a number of family members over for a wedding but still doted over us when we needed help. The breakfast here was amazing and if you’re into the B&B scene I say track this place down! Very close to Blarney Castle and Kilkenney so a good place to set down for the inbetween.
We spent a good hour just wandering the street taking pictures of cows, vistas and general skullduggery of our own. The town proper includes Blarney Castle and a Woolen Mills megastore that's worth exploring for something warm to wear in those cold nights.

August 6, 2012

Ireland Tuesday July 31 - Tramore

I noticed I’ve been meandering, so I’m going to try a different layout on this. I’ll use these ratings to help me focus:

Stars:
* - Avoid
** - Approved
*** - Don’t miss

Finally we leave Dublin! Jet lag plus three days of almost exclusively traveling by foot had taken its toll so it was nice to know we’d be able to drive places and move about at our leisure.

We booked a cab in the morning from the hotel to Hertz for convenience sake and chatted with our cabby on the way over. He was a bit less talkative then the others but still gave us some good information on things to see around the areas we were heading.

South Street Hertz, Dublin - **

Hertz was really great to us. We were warned about the size of our car and even advised not to rent a GPS because we would “be able to buy two units” for the price of renting (note from later - we were able to skip the GPS all together. 70 euro back in our pockets!). We were asked if we wanted to upgrade to two drivers but decided to take the single driver to save another 108 euro.

The Nicest People You’ll Ever Meet

My first experience driving was interesting. We made a left out of Hertz just to get used to it and pretty soon were utterly lost. A lucky stumble across a gas station led me inside to ask for directions.

The attendant was explaining how to get to the N11 when out of nowhere the gentlemen behind me offered to show us to the highway. I jump in the car and next thing we know we’re tailing a perky stranger through the streets of Dublin.

Now, conventional wisdom states this is a good way to get robbed. I was on the lookout for weirdness and made sure that he was taking us back to the city center. At one long light he jumps out of his car and tells me he’ll pull over before he goes his own way. Hilarious, and very kind. We parted ways at the start of the N11 with high spirits.

Finding the path to Glenadalough was easy enough but I nearly slid into an old habit and left-turned into the right lane after a roundabout. I also clipped some roadside shrubbery. I assured Janet that we were just trying to help the tourism board save on hedge clipping, but she remained staunch in her belief that I was actively trying to take her out first.

Glendalough - ***


Glendalough was divided into two sections: The monastic settlement/graveyard (pictured top and left) and two hiking trails that lead up to a verdant lake area.

The hikes at Glendalough were beautiful beyond words. It was a fitting introduction to Ireland’s natural beauty and historic ruins. The hiking trails are well maintained and the little cafe at the second lot near the upper lake has warm drinks for the hike back to the monastic city and parking lot. Don’t miss out on the waterfall hike for some great pictures.

Fair warning, if you pee on Ireland, it will pee you back. I spent most of the second half of the hike in wet socks when I stomped into some mucky sod. Deserved it.



B and B Norlands, Tramore - **

Beautiful start for the B and B scene. Our host Nialls was welcoming and very charming. Every time we’d cross paths we’d have a nice long conversation about our itinerary and he had plenty of suggestions. The house was beautifully kept and the room was immaculate.

Tramore - **

The town of Tramore was beautiful. Built into the side of a mountain overlooking the ocean, the streets are charmingly bent and meandering. At the base they had a boardwalk park with a ferris wheel and plenty of activity.

Great Hotel - *

The food was delicious and if you sat in the right spot you got a wonderful view of the ocean from a high point in the town. Unfortunately we did not get one of those spots and the waiter was a bit too overwhelmed to properly help us, leading to a crappy experience.

On the way back to the B&B we stopped for a 99er then turned in for a lazy night.

August 4, 2012

Ireland Monday July 30th - Dublin

In the morning we set out to make up on some other missed attractions from the day before. Let your itinerary flow when you’re in Ireland, especially if you’re spending a few days in the area.

Carrols

We were on our way to St. Michals when we passed by Carrol’s gift shop where a cabby had told us to try to find our souvenirs. It wasn’t long before we had in our possession some swanky tees and an amazing viking hat.

Jeweler

We set out again for St. Michals but the lady had been coveting a Claddagh ring and a nearby store there had a cute display on the street that drew us upstairs. It wasn’t long before she had found the ring that was ‘just right’ at the jeweler there.

St. Michals

We finally made our way over to St. Michals using the street signs that helpfully point out nearby attractions. The church, like many in Ireland, is an architectural marvel and quite beautiful inside. Many people in the country are still very religious. The thing I was most interested in was the crypt tour.

In comes the tour guy with a cigarette and a coffee. My first impression was that he was hungover and we had made a huge mistake. He led us around the church and to the crypt entrance. As people filed away into the underground he asked each group where they were from and a little bit about their trip, which I thought was cute but annoying since it took us a while to get down there.

When we got down there I understood pretty much everything. He was a master at describing the different tombs and the situations that each was in, from the hated nobleman to the still active burial area. He had asked about where everyone was from so he could pepper in some local language and jokes when descriptions were too complicated form limited English speakers. It was a big enhancement overall and a completely brilliant performance.

We were then allowed into the first crypt (we were doing our tour backwards) which housed some naturally mummified bodies. A large part of our initial group had taken off to do other things leaving about 15 of us for the first crypt tour. We were patient for the tour guide and he came down to talk about the crypt there as well.

Since the group was so small, we were allowed in to touch the finger of the ‘Dead Crusader’ for luck. If you’ve never touched a mummified finger before, let me assure you it is utterly disgusting.

Jameson Distillery

We shot over to the Old Jameson Distillery for another tour. In the first room Janet was given a Jameson cardboard tube and proclaimed the recipient of a free whiskey tasting. This, of course, left a bad taste in my mouth when I was glanced over for the honor.

Jameson was another ex-factory tour where you were just told what had gone on there at some point in the past. From what I understand the Jameson factory near Waterford is an active facility in which you get a more involved tour. This affects my enjoyment, but the tour was still interesting.

We got to the end and everyone was given a choice between several Jameson mixed drinks or a straight shot of their aged 12 year. I picked up a Jameson and Cranberry while Janet nabbed a Jameson and Ginger. Then she was called up for her tasting!

In front of the rest of us unwashed slobs a panel of 12 were given a shot of Jameson aged 12, a shot of Jack Daniels Red Label, and a shot of Scotch, then asked to chain sip them to compare. Ten out of twelve people picked the Jameson 12.

We also had lunch there, which was delicious, then picked up some souvenirs (including a Jameson truffle bar which remains untested, to my own chagrin). I’d suggest anyone who plans on doing these touristy things bring a backpack or prepare to suffer as a walking billboard.

St Patricks

By the time we got to Saint Patricks cathedral there was some actual sun! We stopped off in the park outside to soak up some rays and got the chance to see a real Irish argument in action, which as you might expect is just two different people saying passive aggressive things loudly in public.

The cathedral was beautiful, definitely the most beautiful and most photogenic of the churches we visited. There are also some ancient sigil banners hanging in one section which were a treat to look at and take pictures of.

Mall of Dublin

What can I say about the mall stores in Dublin? They were all sectioned off in Temple Bar and were easy to get through, but by the time we got there we were exhausted! I’m sure we could have enjoyed this part of the trip better if we hadn’t been exhausted.

One thing to note when trying to find food: Everything has mayo on it. All of the premade sandwhiches have it, and if you don’t specify that you want no mayo on ordered sandwiches there’s a good chance you’ll end up with it. So just clarify with most of your choices or you’ll end up wandering Dublin for hours trying to find something that isn’t already drenched in animal fat.

We finally trudged over to the Ginger Bread Man pub. We ordered some food and I ended another night with a pint of Irish red. The particular brew escapes me but it was delicious as was our food.

To close out our little venture in Dublin and our last day in the hotel we brewed ourselves a spot of tea and had the last of our animal crackers while watching the London news crew comment on the Olympic teams.

August 2, 2012

Ireland Sunday July 29 - Dublin

We spent about half an hour trying to figure out the buses before a lucky combo of frustration and a red light netted us a cab. Our first guy was really polite even though we were saying nonsense. The conversation basically went:
”We’re going to the gow-l.” (spelled gaol).
“Uh…”
“Kilmainham Gaol?”
“You mean the jail?”
“Oh… it’s pronounced the same way?”

Kilmainham Gaol

After that things were simpler. We queued at Kilmainham and were treated to a little museum and a guided tour. The tour at Kilmainham includes a bit of Irish history on the war for Independence and the five failed revolutions (protip: more reasons to hate the French). Highly suggested!


Guinness Storehouse

We cabbed on over to Guinness from the jail and we were given a great tip: When an irish person asks you about your itinerary, don’t be alarmed. They just want to suggest things to you. We’ve been given so much information on things to do I feel bad for having made so many plans in advance. A vacation to Ireland should be left to bare bones must-dos and local suggestion.

Guinness was a self-guided tour that detailed the process of brewing Guinness from hops to cask. The thing, ironically, that Guinness shined in was the delectable lunch available from the fifth floor 'Brewer's Dining Hall'. Go get the Guinness Stew and Chocolate Mousse, you will not be disappointed.

While you’re there, snatch up some of their recipe cards to make at home. Before you leave, make sure to retrieve your complimentary ‘Perfect Pour’ from the Gravity Bar and get the 360 degree view from the top of the factory.

Behind the scenes: While the activity list from the Frommer’s guides were awesome, their maps were awful. I spent a lot of time lost and it caused some big arguments. Do not use their maps.

Christchurch Cathedral

After ambling around the storehouse for a while we ended up walking through Dublin in a downpour and stumbled across Christchurch. It’s a beautiful little area and for a small fee you can wander around at off hours and take pictures of the grounds. If you’re at all interested, go for it!

Dublin Castle was… there. Just don’t.

Queen of Tarts was just as delicious a second time around!

Unfortunately jet lag hit hard at around dinner and we ran back to the hotel to take a nap. That lasted until 9p! Has anyone recently told you that stuff closes in Dublin? Every restaurant near us was closed except for the pubs which had closed their kitchens. Luckily there was a nearby pizza place that was open until 1a. We got a mini pizza each and scurried back to the hotel with our spoils.